Features of the Book

The book uses a practical approach with clear photographs explaining each step of the process. It’s intended to help established jewellers, jewellery students, home crafters and advanced amateurs understand how to score and fold metal.

In addition to the techniques, the book includes a section with resources such as an analysis of score depth according to the gauge of the wire used, and information about where to source materials.

About the Authors

Anastasia Young is a London-based jewellery artist, author and lecturer with her work displayed in the permanent collections of the Science Museum, London and Central Saint Martins Museum. She currently teaches at Birmingham University.

Paul Wells, a London-based silversmith and jeweller, is known for his metalworking techniques. He has received two Gold Awards for Technological Innovation from the Goldsmiths’ Crafts and Design Council.

Praise for the Book

Charles Lewton-Brain, a master goldsmith and the author of the book “Foldforming,” said of the new book:

“This book is indeed a game changer. The authors took an important part of foldforming, scoring and bending, and explored and documented it thoroughly, a huge advance in foldforming information, an excellent job and a wonderful book!”

The book is available through Amazon and other retailers.

But who are your customers, really?

As diverse as they are, most customers can be grouped into four basic types:

• Price Buyers
• Relationship Buyers
• Value Buyers
• Need-Based Buyers.

This categorisation can offer invaluable insights into their buying behaviour and help you tailor your sales approach.

This article delves into these customer types and provides tips for effectively selling to each.

The Price Buyer: Competitive Cost is Key

Price Buyers are customers driven primarily by cost. Their quest for the best deal often makes them less brand loyal; they’ll compare prices across different retailers to ensure they’re getting the most affordable option.

In the jewellery business, appealing to Price Buyers can be challenging due to the high value associated with jewellery items. However, this doesn’t mean they’re unreachable.

Offering competitively priced items, discounts, and deals can attract Price Buyers. Consider having a range of cost-effective pieces that don’t compromise on quality.

Additionally, clear communication about the real value and durability of your products can help Price Buyers justify their purchases.

The Relationship Buyer: Cultivating Trust and Loyalty

Relationship Buyers value the bond they form with a brand or a salesperson. They appreciate exceptional customer service and will become repeat customers if they feel their needs are met and they’re being treated well.

To cater to Relationship Buyers, strive to provide exceptional customer service. This includes understanding their preferences, guiding them through their purchasing journey, and providing after-sales service.

Consider implementing a loyalty programme, sending personalised messages on special occasions, or offering services like jewellery cleaning and maintenance.

Remember, the jewellery business isn’t just about selling a product; it’s about selling an experience.

The Value Buyer: Balancing Cost and Quality

Value Buyers seek the best balance between cost and quality. They’re willing to pay more if they perceive the product as having high value. They’re typically well-informed and do extensive research before making a purchase.

To attract Value Buyers, you need to demonstrate the value of your products convincingly. This could be done by educating customers about the materials used, the craftsmanship involved, and the longevity and timeless appeal of the pieces.

Offering a warranty or guarantee can also reassure these customers of the value they’re getting.

The Need-Based Buyer: Fulfilling Specific Needs

Need-Based Buyers have a clear, immediate need. They might be less concerned about price, relationship, or overall value if a product meets their immediate requirement. These customers might be looking for a specific piece of jewellery for an occasion or a specific design they’ve envisioned.

To cater to Need-Based Buyers, a wide variety of jewellery items and the ability to deliver on custom requests can be advantageous.

Quick response times and efficient service are also crucial for these customers who are often time-constrained.

Embrace the Diversity

Each customer type has distinct needs and preferences, and understanding these can significantly boost your sales and customer satisfaction levels.

Remember, however, that these categories are not rigid. A single customer may display characteristics of multiple types, depending on their situation.

In the end, the key to successful jewellery retailing is to embrace the diversity of your customers. By understanding the different customer types and adapting your approach accordingly, you can ensure every customer feels understood, valued, and satisfied with their purchase.

Whether they’re looking for the best deal, a trustworthy relationship, great value, or a specific piece, you’ll be equipped to cater to their needs and expectations.

The real work begins when you aim to attract traffic, engage your customers, and clinch those crucial sales.

It’s a dynamic world out there – the ebb and flow of consumer behaviour and social media trends make it quite the challenge.

This is our first steps SEO guide, the must haves to get your company getting traffic and being found online.

First up: What is SEO?

SEO, or Search Engine Optimisation, is a set of strategies and techniques aimed at improving your jewellery store’s visibility on search engine results pages (SERPs), like Google.

In other words, it’s about making your website more attractive to search engines.

When your website is well-optimised, it’s more likely to appear higher in search results when people type in keywords related to jewellery or your specific products. This increased visibility can lead to more traffic to your site, and ideally, more sales.

SEO strategies for a jewellery store might include keyword research to find out what terms customers use when they’re looking for products you sell, creating high-quality content that uses these keywords, ensuring your website loads quickly and works well on mobile devices, and building a network of links to your site from other reputable websites.

It’s all about the right traffic

SEO isn’t just about attracting more visitors to your site, though. It’s also about attracting the right visitors – those who are likely to buy your jewellery. That’s why understanding your audience and what they’re searching for is such a crucial part of SEO.

SEO is also an ongoing process, not a one-time task.

Search engine algorithms change frequently, and what worked a year or even a few months ago might not be as effective today. That’s why it’s essential to monitor your SEO efforts regularly, adjust your strategies as needed, and stay up-to-date with the latest best practices.

Getting started with SEO

There are many parts to SEO and there is a whole industry dedicated to it, which means that it can be a bit intimidating to dip your toe into. In this article, we’ll give you an overview and explain

1: Set up and install Google Analytics

Google Analytics is a treasure trove of insights, letting you delve into the minutiae of your site’s performance.

From visitor numbers and their geographical spread to the keywords that led them to your virtual door, it’s got it all.

Plus, it can even offer you monthly reports for an even deeper analysis. One thing to know is that Google Analytics is currently changing – from 1st July 2023, the old GA will no longer work and only the new ‘Google Analytics 4’ will operate.

If you don’t already have a plan for migrating to GA4, it’s time to work on one!

2: Set up and install Google Search Console

Google Search Console is like your website’s health inspector. It’s on the lookout for any crawl errors, helps you submit pages for early indexing, and even assists with updating SEO-related data like sitemaps.

It’s a great way to understand what keywords people are using to find your website, but also see what search terms you could be getting clicks for but aren’t currently.

3: List your business on Google

A crucial part of local SEO is the use of Google’s Business Profile tool.

By creating and optimising your Google Business listing, you can appear in local search results and Google Maps. This listing displays important information about your business, such as your address, hours of operation, and customer reviews. This isn’t something typically focused on in traditional SEO, but helps you be found when a potential customer searches something like ‘jewellery store near me’.

Online customer reviews can be a strong signal to search engines that your brand communicates, authority, confidence and  trust. Make a habit of asking your customers to leave a review and if you ever receive a negative one, use this as a learning experience and work hard to change their mind.

4: On site SEO – Keyword linking and Meta Descriptions

If you want Google to read, understand, and serve your content to the right audience, ‘onsite SEO’ is your best friend.

It’s all about making sure every page on your website – be it a product page or an information hub – has the right information that Google needs to understand what the page is about and make it more likely to show it to visitors.

Elements like Meta tags, Title, Descriptions, and matching keywords serve as signposts, guiding users to the content they seek.

Although the site content itself will index and be searchable over time this Meta information is important to secure considered pathways to your content via search results. Go through every page on your website and ensure the Title, description and meta tag information for the site is filled in with information relevant to the page being viewed.

5: Content/Blogs/Education

A good blog or education centre is a fundamental part of a website and a great way to showcase your expertise.

A blog can increase organic traffic (people searching google) and enhance your link placement in search results for new and relevant content.

Provide breakdowns of procedures, talk about new technology, give in-depth reviews of particular machinery or processes you are using, the types of diamonds or gemstones you are buying and their origins and quality or guides on how to care and look after their jewellery purchase.

Share this content on your social media accounts too to increase your reach.

7: Link building

In brief this is the strategy of getting links from other relevant industry websites back to yours. This might be in the form of a press release with a link back to your site or advertising through online platforms. The most beneficial links are permanent ones through press release or educational articles written for industry magazines and directories.

Also consider the use of outbound links to authoritative websites as these can play a major role in your sites search engine optimisation. If Google thinks that the your website page is a hub of information based on things such as the relevancy and quality of outbound links, your website can be established as a page of helpful content in the views of Google.

8: Conversion

The goal of getting traffic to your website through SEO is of course to convert the website visitor into a customer.

This doesn’t always mean making a sale, although that’s the eventual goal. A conversion could be as simple as an email sign-up, a valuable step that ushers a potential customer into your sales funnel.

Each engagement with your website, be it reading a blog post, subscribing to a newsletter, or making an enquiry, brings a customer closer to making a purchase.

SEO plays a key role in this journey, attracting the right audience to your site, providing them with engaging, relevant content, and guiding them through a seamless, enjoyable online experience.

Remember, every conversion, no matter how small, is a step towards building a loyal customer base for your jewellery business.

According to the National Association of Jewellers, the stats are encouraging for both apprentices and for businesses thinking about offering an apprenticeship.

Of the apprentices that finished an apprenticeship, 90% went on to secure a job or went on to further learning. 88% were in sustained employment and 2% went on to continue their education.

Out of the employers surveyed, 83% would recommend apprenticeships to other businesses.

If you’re a business that wants to offer an apprenticeship, click here to learn more about what’s involved and the support available to you.

What’s involved in a jewellery apprenticeship?

There are many different apprenticeships available, from the equivalent of GCSE to the equivalent of a Master’s degree. Most take 13- 36 months to complete. The type of apprenticeship and level of education achieved will affect the length of your training.

You can start an apprenticeship at any level. Depending on what level you start at, you might need prior experience e.g. GSCE English or Maths.

As part of the apprenticeship, 20% of your time (one day a week if you are doing a full-time apprenticeship) will be taken up with apprenticeship-related study or training. This can be done at a college, university, training provider or can be provided by the business. This involves things like mentoring by your manager, work-based projects, industry webinars, research and assignments

This study will prepare you for the End Point Assessment (EPA), which you must do in order to complete the apprenticeship. This can involve things like a workplace observation, an online test and producing a portfolio of work.

You can read more about apprenticeships on the government’s apprentice website.

‘Jewellery, Silversmith and Allied Trades Professional’

The official name of the jewellery apprenticeship scheme in the UK, as defined by the Institute for Apprenticeships & Technical Education is ‘Jewellery, Silversmith and Allied Trades Professional’.

This reflects the range of functions and skills that make up the jewellery manufacturing in the UK, including:

• Lapidary – selecting, cutting and polishing precious and semi-precious stones
• Casting – forming moulds and working with molten precious metals to form shapes
• Stone setting – selecting and fixing stones into a form and ensuring they are secure
• Mounting – creating parts of jewellery to which precious stones are fitted
• Engraving – using tools to create patterns, including text, images and intricate patterns
• Enamelling – working with enamel to create coloured patterns, images and finishes
• Polishing and finishing – applying different processes and materials to produce a polish and shine to an item or highlight a special finish
• CAD/CAM – working with designers to produce model forms for manufacturing

What would you actually be doing as an apprentice?

The core focus of a jewellery apprenticeship is to give you experience of using hand and powered tools and equipment effectively and safely, helping you understand how to work with designs and specifications and giving you experience of how to work with different materials.

Typical day-to-day duties may include:

• Obtain and understand the requirements of a design
• Working with CAD designs
• Operation of equipment to produce items using CAM machinery
• The cutting of metals to given shapes and designs
• Working with hand tools and machinery to derive a range of different finishes and patterns
• Production of items in wax for casting
• Casting items in precious metals
• Working with enamels to achieve required finishes
• Selecting and setting precious stones
• Polishing and finishing items
• Examine finished jewellery and/or silverware products for quality;
• Repair and/or rework jewellery and/or silverware items

Who is eligible?

To be eligible for an apprenticeship, you must be 16 or over and not already be in full- time education. However apprenticeships aren’t just for school leavers or people starting their career, you might be looking to change careers or upskilling in your current job.

How much does an apprentice earn?

For the first year of your apprenticeship, you’ll be paid the apprentice minimum wage. Once you’ve completed your first year, your pay goes up to the minimum wage for your age group:

You’ll also get holiday pay, bank holidays and sick leave. You can find more information about apprenticeship pay and rewards here.

How do you find an apprenticeship?

There are lots of organisations that offer apprenticeships.

• British Academy of Jewellery offers apprenticeships in London or Birmingham
• The Goldsmiths Company offers 3-5 year apprenticeships within the workshop of a goldsmithing business
• The Government’s official apprenticeship website offers a list of currently available apprenticeships
• Indeed lists currently available jewellery apprenticeship opportunities

What If I want to offer an apprenticeship?

If you’re a business that wants to offer an apprenticeship, there are a few things you’ll need to know.

Requirements

Your apprentice must be over 16 years old, they must be paid the minimum wage and at least 20% of their time with you will be devoted to training or study, however this can be related to your business.

Government funding for jewellery apprenticeships

There is government funding available to help with the cost of training an apprentice.

For example, you may be able to get £1,000 to support your apprentice in the workplace this can be put towards training or for other costs.

Your apprentice will just need to be either:

• 16 to 18 years old
• 19 to 25 years old with an education, health and care plan
• 19 to 25 years old and they used to be in care

You can view all the options for apprenticeship funding here.

If you want to hire an apprentice, but don’t know where to start, here is a good guide on how to write a job ad.

Once you’ve found the apprentice you want to hire, an apprentice agreement must be set up.

If you don’t want to train the apprentice yourself, there are training agencies that can undertake it for you.

For more information on all aspects of apprenticeship, whether you’re looking to become one or hire one, visit apprenticeships.gov.uk.

Can we take this seriously? and is there any truth to these home tests?

So while you go dig out your diamond rings that auntie Pat left you in her Will, please note the information below is a guide only and should be taken with caution. If you are in any doubt about the authenticity of diamonds you have bought or been given please seek the opinion of a professional valuer or Jeweller.

1. Use an electronic diamond tester

The simplest and most accurate way of checking the authenticity of your diamond is to purchase a Diamond Tester from amazon. These inexpensive devices can tell you a lot about the properties of your stone.

2. The newspaper ‘ read through’ test.

Place your diamond on a newspaper. If you can read the writing through the diamond then you possibly have a glass or quartz diamond.

Real diamonds have a high refractive index and dispersion of light, they will bend light making it very difficult to see through them. Due to a diamonds unique properties it can look brighter and more colourful than plain glass. If your in doubt then please take your diamond to a local jeweller.

3. The fog test

A diamond is very good at dispersing heat. If you hold the diamond up to your mouth and use the fog method like you would when cleaning a mirror, a diamond should evaporate the fog instantly.

If the fog stays on the diamond for more than 3-4 second then you may be holding a fake diamond.

4. The weighing test

Using a carat or gram scale you can check the weight of your diamond. Fake diamonds will normally weigh 50 – 60% heavier than an authentic diamond of the same size.

5. The rainbow test.

If you look closely at a diamonds sparkle, you should see beautiful shades of Grey reflections. If you see many rainbow reflections, you either have a very low quality diamond or a fake.

6. The UV test.

If you have a UV or Black light to hand then you might want to try this simple test.

Place the diamond under the light in a dark room. If the diamond is real it should show a blue fluorescent glow. The absence of blue, however, does not mean it is fake, it could simply be a higher quality diamond.

If you see a very slight Green, Yellow, or Grey fluorescence under ultraviolet light, it could possibly be a fake.

7. The flaw test

Diamonds tend to have tiny flaws in them such as small cracks, traces of carbon or pinpoints. These flaws are called inclusions and can effect the clarity of the diamond. The less inclusions in the diamond, the higher it scores on the clarity ranking chart.

You can use a magnified glass to check for these tiny imperfections. If you can’t see anything, you either have a very expensive, rare diamond or a fake. You might want to get a professional jeweller to check this over for you.

8. The metal test

As a diamond is a very expensive item to own, they are normally set in precious metals such as Gold, Silver, Palladium or Platinum. Always check the shank of the ring for a hallmark. If you find a hallmark with (CZ) on the stamp then your diamond is a fake

9. The trip test

The best possible place to get your diamond checked out professionally is a trip to your local jewellers.

10. The Water Test

Take a glass of water and drop your diamond into it. If it sinks it is more likely to be a diamond as it has a high density. If it floats above or just below the water you diamond is likely to be fake.

11. Diamond Inspection using a Loupe

A simple and inexpensive Diamond Loupe  can be used to magnify the diamond to see it’s imperfections and colour. These imperfections are called inclusions and can tell a diamond expert a lot about it’s quality. White gemstones or Glass stones such as Cubic Zirconias don’t generally have these flaws.

When the time is drawing near, that’s when you need to start paying attention. Observe her style, any small hints that she may be dropping and try to gauge her expectations. Along with any hints you can up, you will need to consider things like carat size, stone shape, setting style and most importantly, your budget.

One of the best places to start your search for popular engagement rings is online. While the point of your engagement is to make a statement of your love and commitment, presenting the perfect ring is still an important moment. Here are a few tips to help you find the perfect ring that she will wear proudly.

Internet Searches

Without invading her privacy by hacking into her devices, you may be able to track some of her internet searches to find any ring clues. Follow her Pinterest account and see if she has dedicated any boards to wedding posts or rings that she likes. If you share a home computer, you can try searching through her recent browsing history to see if there are any jewelry sites that could give you some clues.

Friends & Family

Even if you are trying to keep your proposal a secret, you may have to enlist the help of her friends and family for ring suggestions. Let’s face it, women talk to their girlfriends, their sisters or their mothers about things like the ring of their dreams. Sit down with your girl’s best friend or mother to get some ideas about what she may like.

You can even suggest that one of her friends join you when you go out ring shopping. You may get some great advice about what she may like. Make it a fun day out shopping with your future mother-in-law with some lunch and bonding time.

Know Her Style

Every woman has her own specific style. If you are getting ready to ask her to marry you, you probably already have a good idea what her style is. How she dresses and decorates the places in her life will say a lot about her natural style.

If her style is simple and plain she may love a ring that is classic and elegant, like a solitaire diamond with a platinum setting. If your love is a bit of a fashionista, you might want to stick with the latest trends. For women that are more active and sporty you should think about getting a ring with a lower profile and a simple design that won’t interfere with her daily activities.

Just Ask Her

If you aren’t looking to make your proposal a huge surprise, you can always just ask her about her ring tastes and expectations. Go on a casual shopping trip and have some fun trying on rings.

Read more about jewellery here: https://www.jewellerymonthly.com/category/jewellery-diamonds-and-gemstones/

If you are a silver lover and prefer to add more silver accessories to your collection, then below are some of the benefits you can reap by adding silver utensils to your home.

It Purifies Water

It is a well-known fact that silverware helps purify water and protect it from bacteria. Silver has antibacterial properties and using it as cutlery is completely safe. In fact, people boil food and water in their silverware to purify it from any harmful elements that might affect their kids.
Silver does this by positively charging the water particles which in turn protects the body from electromagnetic radiation and improves our blood circulation. It also helps balance our body temperature and works as a natural healer.

Keeps Water And Food Fresh

Silver cutlery sets are not toxic in nature. They are prone to get easily oxidized like other types of metals. In fact, silver reacts with toxic substances and changes the way they interact with the human body. Silver kills microbes and other harmful bacteria and resists their further growth while preserving the food for a longer time.

It Supports And Boosts Immunity

Silver has long been known to protect and balance our immune system. Silver cutlery sets and other instruments are widely used to protect babies from diseases and protect their immune system.

When hot food is served in a silver plate, it will melt and taste great. When someone consumes this food, it will have antibacterial properties which in turn will help boost the immune system. Besides, many herbal medicines use extracts of silver as a compound in their supplements to boost immunity.

Silver Has A Cooling Effect

Silver has a cooling effect on all of your body. This is one of the primary reasons why people are starting to wear silver ornaments and jewelry. Silver helps maintain the natural body temperature, helping you fight heat strokes.

With its antioxidant properties and the capability to fight bacteria, women and men are now looking to adorn themselves with sterling silver. Besides, this natural coolant isn’t expensive.

It Is Not Toxic At All

Metals are sometimes toxic. They can mix with the servings and can cause toxicity in your body. If you are a regular user of plastic cutlery sets, then you should know the fact that plastic is mildly toxic. But in comparison, this is not the case with silver.

The metal isn’t harmful and doesn’t oxidize. Besides, it doesn’t unfavorably interact with the food. In fact, it is handy for your well-being.

Highly Durable

Silver cutlery sets can be used for a lifetime. They don’t rust or get spoiled after a few months. You can say it is a one-time investment and can be easily passed to the next generations if you are ever going to. They are also easy to clean and don’t require sterilization with boil water after use.

If you buy plastic or metal plates, you are likely to buy them again after some time. But if your choice was a silver plate, then you don’t need to spend money on them again.

It Is Inexpensive

With all the above benefits you might think that silvery cutlery sets are someway expensive than traditional plastic ones. But actually, they almost cost the same and last long. It means silverware is a great way to get full value for your money and is cost-effective in the long run as well.

Conclusion

In conclusion, there are several benefits of using silver cutlery sets. Besides, they are easy on your pocket and a great way to protect you from toxic elements and bacteria. Silver is also a great way to protect your infants who are usually more prone to diseases, like indigestion.
While purifying the water and keeping our food fresh, silver utensils are one of the best to capitalize on and you should certainly buy them.

For further education articles all about jewellery:
https://www.jewellerymonthly.com/category/jewellery_education/

I was recently approached by a customer who said that she was on the market for either a diamond ring or diamond studs and was unable to decide which one to go for. After some broad-ranging generic questions, I was able to determine that she was genuine and not just out to look around.

Why do you want a diamond?

The first thing I asked her was: why do you want a diamond (ring or studs)? The customer was a middle-aged lady who obviously has been through the challenges of juggling marriage, family, raising children and career. She now had some surplus money and she told me that she always wanted to treat herself to a nice diamond. But never ever had the savings or the opportunity to spoil herself. And now that she was able to spoil herself, she was not able to decide. Her budget was approximately £4,500. Not small change, but the fact was, if she decided to go for a top-grade diamond she would need to compromise on its size; and vice versa if she decided to go for a large size stone. In an ideal world, if she was able to spend say, £8,000 that would achieve both goals – size and quality. But there is never an ideal world scenario.

Diamond ring or studs?

By this stage, I had asked sufficient probing questions to ascertain that the size of diamond was important for her over colour and clarity, but she also wanted a ‘higher colour’ (colourless) diamond. The suggestion that I made to her was that she should consider a solitaire diamond ring, instead of studs.

I put forward two reasons to back my suggestion:
With diamond studs, she will not be able to see herself wearing and enjoying them. Sure, diamond studs look beautiful, but only other people will view them. And they would need to be pretty large for anyone to stand up and take notice. That means, investing in a large pair of diamonds and possibly stretching her budget or compromising on quality.

With a diamond ring, she can enjoy wearing and admiring it on her finger. She could always get a pair of medium sized studs to back up the ring at a reasonable price at some point in the future.

Secondly, it makes more sense to pool all your money into one large diamond as opposed to two smaller ones. Diamonds are limited resource, and in this day and age of people wearing large synthetic diamonds, her beautiful diamond will hold its value in time to come.

Size, Colour and Clarity

I had determined that her budget was $8,000; she preferred a larger stone but still wanted a good-looking colourless diamond as well. She was not much into technical jargon in terms of colour and clarity grades. Hence, I had decided to keep the discussion very simple. I offered her 3 Round Brilliant Cut (RBC) diamonds and all prices given below are for the diamond made up into an 18ct white gold, 6-claw solitaire ring:

RBC, 0.80 F colour, SI2 clarity, laser inscribed, GIA certificate £4,450

RBC, 1.01ct F colour, SI2 clarity, laser inscribed, IGI certificate, £5,650

RBC, 1.15ct E colour, SI clarity, laser inscribed, IGI certificate, £7,250

(Disclaimer: the prices, size and quality options quoted above are true to life but valid at the time of presentation to the customer. Prices are subject to change over time for a range of reasons including supply, demand and exchange rates.)

The technical stuff

I had personally carefully inspected the diamonds. While they were certified SI2 clarity grades, they were all what I term – “good SI2’s”. Meaning that none had any ugly inclusions which detracted from the overall beauty of the diamond to the naked eye. Their inclusions were internal to the stone and no major inclusions leading towards the girdle that pose a potential risk of chipping the stone with strong impact.

There are independent diamond grading bodies who will over inflate colour and clarity grades so a P1 or P2 will get an SI2 or SI2- respectively; or a G or H colour will get an F colour. And this is done because in the present market, customers make buying decisions solely on the basis of a certificate, not the diamond. Certificates sell. Personally, I believe that there is an onus on sales people to educate and explain accurately and genuinely to the customer. That objective information always helps build trust and relationships long term. However, employers place enormous pressure on their staff to sell and staff may or may not have adequate training and knowledge, hence, certificates serve the role of independent authentication – “don’t take my word for it, look at the certificate”. A case of blind leading the blind!

Furthermore, all three stones were a nice colourless grade – E or F, and the IGI certification was perfect as well (GIA graded diamonds are more expensive). I personally do not go for any EGL certificates but every other diamond grading body – HRD, IGI or GIA are well respected and equally at par.

Finally, all three stones had a nice large spread and that works wonders to the naked eye because it makes the stones look bigger than they are once set into the ring. And finally, but equally importantly, I trust my eyes. I look at the stones under my 10x loupe but also just with my eyes like every other customer. And I know which one works wonders to my eyes. It is as simple as that.

Decisions, decisions…

When the time came, I presented the three options to my customer. And she loved the biggest one but ruled that out because it was quite beyond her budget. The smallest one was within her budget but she loved the 1.01ct diamond because it actually gave the look of a 1.15ct diamond once set into the ring!

However, the fact is, if she would have gone for the 0.80ct diamond, that would have been an equally fine decision because it looked like a 1ct on her finger! But those are very personal choices. Each customer will view a diamond and its perceived value differently.

Finally, she asked me one question, do they get this in a “D-colour”? I said to her, if you want a D-colour, I can get that for you. But, the price will be significantly higher, and remember, colour does not determine sparkle in the diamond. I have seen D colour diamonds that look dull and lifeless; and an H colour diamond that has amazing sparkle. So the physical difference between a D, E and F colour is so negligible to the naked eye that one would struggle to tell the difference. But the price differential is huge because of the rarity of supply factor.

So, there you have it. Another happy customer. In the end, it is the genuine, objective advice, the personalised attention and involving the customer in examining the diamonds and making that choice that helps. They walk away with a real feeling of pride and ownership in that piece of diamond.

This is a painstaking and time-consuming process… choosing the right diamond. Of course, one does need a genuine customer to start with as well… but that is a totally different story for another time!

This article was written by Amit Laxman, Radiant Diamonds, Melbourne, Australia.

Radiant Diamonds specialise in the manufacture of bespoke jewellery using naturally sourced fancy coloured diamonds and colourless (white) diamonds.
http://www.radiant-diamonds.com/

For further education articles all about jewellery:
https://www.jewellerymonthly.com/category/jewellery_education/

Before you set off finding the perfect ring, it’s a good idea to clue yourself up on the terminology around engagement rings so that you know what you’re looking for. Angelic Diamonds, experts in diamond jewellery and engagement rings, decode some of the common terms:

The styles

The style of the ring determines the arrangement of the focal diamond, where the diamonds sit on the band, and how it looks on the finger. There are eight main styles:

Solitaire — The simplest style, a solitaire ring features a single stone in the centre of the band.

Shoulder — This style of ring features a channel of diamonds running down each side (shoulder) of the band, it usually has a larger diamond in the centre too.

Halo — This is a popular style; a centre diamond is framed with smaller diamonds which makes the centre stone look bigger.

Three-stone — Said to symbolise the couple’s past, present and future, a three-stone band is often made up of a large diamond which is framed by a smaller diamond on each side.

Cluster — For this style of ring, smaller diamonds are grouped together to give the appearance of one big diamond.

Tension — In a tension set ring, the tension of the band keeps the diamond in its place, it often creates a bold and modern look.

Bezel — In a bezel ring, a thin piece of metal holds the ring in place. You can choose from full bezel ring settings where the diamond is fully circled or partial bezel settings that only cover part of the diamond.

Vintage — Inspired by antique styles, a vintage engagement ring is designed to look like it’s from centuries ago.

The cuts

Once you’ve decided on the style of ring, you’ll have to choose the cut. This determines how much sparkle and shine a diamond has.

Round — This is the most popular cut of diamond and considered to be the most brilliant by many. The stone is cut into a cone shape which allows light to enter the stone.

Princess — This cut looks as though it’s a square or rectangle but is actually a pyramid shape, this shape is again known for its brilliance.

Emerald — An Emerald cut diamond is rectangular with rounded corners, designed to highlight the gem’s shine.

Oval — Cut in a similar way to the round diamond, an Oval cut offers more of a contemporary feel.

Pear — Also known as the teardrop, the Pear cut diamond can be worn either pointing towards or away from the hand.

Marquise — Cut with an elongated shape and sharp ends, the Marquise diamond gives off a majestic appearance.

Cushion — Also referred to as a pillow cut diamond, the Cushion shaped diamond can be square or rectangular with larger facets and rounded corners.

Asscher — Cut in a similar way to an Emerald diamond, an Asscher cut diamond has an octagonal shape and more brilliance.

Heart — The Heart cut has similar brilliance to the Round cut diamond but is more eye-catching because of its shape, guaranteed to turn heads.

Radiant — This type of cut has a square shape and rounded corners, similar to the Emerald cut. However, a radiant cut diamond has more brilliance and sparkle.

The 4Cs

The main feature of an engagement ring is usually its diamond. There are four main aspects of the diamond that determines its appearance and cost:

Cut — As we looked at earlier, the cut of a diamond refers to its symmetry, proportions and polish. It shouldn’t be confused with the shape of the diamond.

Clarity — This refers to the diamond’s internal features, or ‘inclusions’. Generally speaking, the more inclusions that a ring has, the less appealing it is.

Colour — Although most diamonds look colourless to the naked eye, if you look closely you might be able to see that there are subtle yellow and brown tones that separate them. Less expensive diamonds are usually the ones with the most of these tones.

Carat weight — Carat is the unit that diamonds are weighed in. Note that this is different to a Karat which is a measurement of purity in gold.

Additional terms

There are a few more obscure terms that you might come across when shopping for a ring:

Culet — This is the point at the bottom of the diamond, the size and angle of this can affect the diamond’s worth.

Brilliance — This refers to the appearance of white light in the stone. Light passing through the stone produces this and it’s expertly measured with a Brilliance-Scope.

Prong — This is a type of setting, also known as the claw. It uses less metal to hold the stone and therefore more light can pass through the diamond.

Channel — Another setting, a channel secures diamonds in place and sits them flush with the band of the ring.

Pavé — A pavé setting sets groups of small gems in place and makes the ring appear to sparkle all the way round the band.

For further educational jewellery articles checkout:
https://www.jewellerymonthly.com/category/jewellery_education/

Over a period of time, we inevitably gather jewels – precious, semi-precious, synthetic, that have been handed down to us from generations past and we simply do not know whether they are of much value. Or they may be jewels that are purchased over many years and we have outgrown them.

Who hasn’t got a few strings of pearls (or at least we believe them to be “pearls” as opposed to “pearl-like” beads); some diamond or gemstone rings – again we assume them to be genuine stones; jewellery where a stone or two has fallen out, or the rings are too tight to be worn; or their design and setting is from a generation past that no longer appeals and has simply been put away at the back of the drawer.

Just like a closet full of clothes yet we never seem to have the right outfit for that special occasion.

But jewellery is a luxury, or at least, precious jewellery certainly is. It is often gifted by loved ones on a special occasion.

So, with the advent of the new year, why not take out a little bit of time to look through our collection.

Separate the ‘wheat from the chaff’
In the first instance, separate the precious jewellery – what we ‘believe’ or ‘know’ to be precious – diamond, gemstone, gold, from the synthetic and fashion jewellery. I deliberately use the words “believe” and “know” because it is one thing to know for certain that – “this is a diamond ring which my husband bought for me on my birthday” as opposed to – “I believe that this is a diamond in this ring which belonged to my grandmother (but I have not had the time to get it assessed)”.

Whether or not you like the design and setting of the jewellery, need to get the claws checked, or whether or not it fits you are totally different issues.

Once you have got together all your precious jewellery, give it a good clean. You cannot assess and make decisions on dirty pieces of jewels. Cleaning jewellery should be done with a medium sized bowl placed below, not in an open sink with running water. Use a soft bristle brush and mild soapy water (you may put a few drops of eucalyptus oil and cloudy ammonia which you can obtain from the supermarket).

It is now time to assess your precious jewellery.

Review your precious jewellery
Here are some issues that you need to consider:
• Do you know for certain whether the stones and pearls are genuine? When was the last time you had an insurance valuation done?

• Is there any jewellery that you do love but it does not fit or there is something or the other minor repair that needs attention? The string of pearls is a bit tight or the threading and knotting of the pearls has come loose over time? There are stones missing and have not been replaced? This should be jewellery which you still enjoy wearing but just have not gotten around to sorting out these little issues.

This jewellery needs to be taken to a good professional jeweller who will be able to re-thread that string of pearls, or check over the claws and overall condition of the jewellery and re-size the ring, as the case may be. These would be repairs which are relatively minor and would enable you to enjoy wearing those pieces again.

•I have often come across customers who know for certain that their jewellery contains precious stones or pearls but do not like the design and setting. The jewellery may have been handed down through the generations or you may have purchased it some years back and your tastes, likes and dislikes have changed over time. That jewellery is just not you anymore. It can also be as basic as liking white gold settings at one point but now you like yellow gold or rose gold settings.

Take some time out of your busy schedule to go to a professional jeweller with these pieces of jewellery. A good professional jeweller will be able to (a) determine what it is that you do and do not like; and (b) make suggestions to use your pearls / precious stones to design and make a totally new piece of jewellery that you will love and enjoy wearing. It is a process of restoring old to new. You will end up with a new design and setting, one that contains your precious stones / pearls which are obviously of sentimental and emotional value to you. So your memories now live on and you enjoy wearing them.

• That leaves us with those pieces of jewellery which we “think” contain a precious diamond or gemstone or pearls but we are not quite sure. Take these pieces to a professional jeweller who will advise you whether or not they really are real and valuable.

•Do not forget to ensure that you get a current valuation for insurance purposes. Good precious jewellery should be re-valued at least once every two years. This is because the value will change depending upon metal prices and exchange rates. And in the unfortunate scenario of a theft or loss of precious jewellery, your insurance company will want to see a reasonably current insurance valuation not one that is out dated. Worse still, jewellery that has no proper documentation of its condition and value can fail to be accurately assessed for value in times of loss.

I always advise my customers to invest in opening a small safe deposit locker to put away their precious jewels and insurance valuations. Go through the ‘hassle’ of bringing what you need to wear and then returning it back to the locker. That way you not only keep proper stock of your valuables but also ensure that they remain safe.

At the end of this process, you will have a well-documented stock of your precious jewellery that has been restored and that you will love wearing again. It can also be a good idea to get your family members who may be thinking of gift ideas for your forthcoming birthday/anniversary to share in the cost of this process. I am sure that they will welcome the concept because you are being wise with your money and making the most of jewels that were otherwise lonesome at the back of the closet.

Have a sparkling 2019!

This article was written by Amit Laxman, Radiant Diamonds, Melbourne, Australia.

Radiant Diamonds specialise in the manufacture of bespoke jewellery using naturally sourced fancy coloured diamonds and colourless (white) diamonds.
http://www.radiant-diamonds.com/

For further education articles all about jewellery:
https://www.jewellerymonthly.com/category/jewellery_education/

1. Inspect your jewellery on a regular basis.

2. Look closely at the claws if you have a diamond ring. These can loosen over time and make your diamond vulnerable to falling out.

3. Wear your jewellery appropriately. You might want to consider taking off your ring or jewellery item when playing sports, gardening or anything else that could cause the jewellery to get knocked or damaged.

4. Store your jewellery correctly. Don’t bunch your jewellery together as this will scratch and wear the metal. It’s a good idea to store the jewellery in the original box. It can also be a good idea to lay your necklaces and bracelets flat as the metal can slightly stretch over time.

More…

Pink Diamonds

Engagement Ring Facts

5. Keep your jewellery in a clean dry place as the moister in the air can also damage your jewellery.

6 Never wear your jewellery while swimming or in a spa. The chlorine in the water is very corrosive and will tarnish the metal.

7. Try and avoid general house hold chemicals when cleaning. Cleaning agents like bleach are also very harmful to Gold, Silver Platinum and Palladium.

8. Try and seek a professional jewellery cleaner at least once every year, especially if your wearing jewellery all the time. White gold for example may need to be rhodium plated so the white gold is protected.

9: If you wish to clean your jewellery at home there are some great jewellery cleaning products available such as www.connoisseursuk.com that provide a range of materials to keep your jewellery clean and sparkling.

Make your jewellery look new

Neweys Jewellers, based in Birminghams historical Jewellery Quarter, offer jewellery cleaning, repairs and valuation services for fine diamond jewellery and engagement rings. Contact us or book an appointment at any time for a complimentary jewellery check up. We can then advise if there are any costs involved in updating your precious items. Find out more at www.neweysjewellers.com

Cushion cut diamond shape

The Cushion cut distinguishes itself in the shape of a square with rounded corners – hence a “pillow-like” look that matches the name.

This is a personal favourite diamond shape for us as you can get a square or rectangle (for those who like geometric symmetry) but without pointed corners (which pose the most risk to the diamond being chipped).

The rounded corners give a soft feminine feel, while the square or rectangle shape gives “a big spread” over the finger – in layperson’s parlance – the shape presents itself as a huge sparkling rock on the finger!

In modern times there are a variety of “modified” cushion cuts – such as a rectangle with rounded corners, cushions with chequer-board or other fancy facet shapes that get called – “broken glass, crushed ice” and so on.

Cushion cut diamond history

Among the various diamond shapes, the Round Brilliant cut is by far the most popular and has a long history of development through to its present day form – the modern Round Brilliant cut.

However, the Cushion cut also has a long history. It has been around for 200 years!

It was traditionally called the ‘Mine cut’ – named after the Brazilian diamond mines. The shape has been very popular in its time because it is very versatile and looks good not just in a ring but also in pendants, necklaces, earrings and bracelets.

This shape retains colour very well and it is a popular shape for fancy coloured diamonds (yellow, cognac, champagne or pink), or coloured gemstones (sapphire, ruby, emerald).

Cushion cut engagement ring settings

The cushion cut diamond offers plenty of versatility and can suit every kind of taste. It can be toned down to a very simple and classic ‘solitaire’ (single stone with claws or a bezel).

You can go for maximum ‘bling’ with a ‘halo’ look with smaller diamonds set all around the main centre stone.

Besides the halo, another ‘non-engagement ring’ look can be a 3-stone setting with the cushion cut in the centre and (say…) trapezoids, heart-shapes or tapered baguette cuts on either side.

Famous cushion cut diamonds

Many of the world’s most famous (and largest) diamonds happen to be Cushion cut, including the Hope Diamond which weighs in at 45.52 carats and the Regent diamond, a whopping 140.5 carats.

Cushion cut diamond price

So how does this shape compare in price with the highly popular Round Brilliant cut?

As is the case with all fancy shape diamonds, the cushion cut offers enormous value for money.

In fact, you will get a bigger fancy shape diamond for the same money as a Round Brilliant.

This is because diamonds are cut for weight and a cutter will prefer to cut a bigger, heavier stone from various shapes of rough diamond crystals.

For the same reason (diamonds being cut to maximise weight), the fact is that the vast majority of fancy shape diamonds are dull and lifeless. Yet most celebrities prefer to buy a fancy shape diamond and not the more popular Round Brilliant cut diamond.

That is because they get more value for their money with a fancy shape diamond like the Cushion cut. The entire category of fancy shape diamonds, including Cushion cuts, can be up to 30% cheaper than the equivalent Round Brilliant.

Table 1 below illustrates the issue of price versus size.

	Round Brilliant cut 1.01ct	Cushion cut 1.01ct	Cushion cut 1.50ct
Colour	E	E	D
Clarity	SI1	SI1	VS2
Cut	Very Good	n/a	n/a
Symmetry	Very Good	Excellent	Very good
Polish	Very Good	Very Good	Good
GIA report	5181964068	7296184365
Price (£)	£5,194.14	£3,308.13	£8,586.27

The 1.01 carat cushion cut diamond is 36% cheaper than the Round Brilliant cut diamond and of the same colour and clarity.

The 1.5 carat cushion cut is 65% more expensive than the Round Brilliant cut diamond, but this is a much bigger diamond with the top colour (D) and a higher clarity (VS2). A Round Brilliant of this size (1.50ct) and quality (D/VS2) will be double the price of this

If well chosen, the cushion cut diamond offers enormous value for money because it comes with a big surface area or “spread” that means more sparkle, and you can end up buying a stone that is much bigger than you anticipated.

Research has revealed that 42% of brutal Brits wouldn’t hesitate to put their ring on eBay following a separation/divorce. Following news that Meghan Markle posted her engagement ring back to her ex, F.Hinds decided to conduct research into what exactly the British public decided to do with unwanted engagement rings.

• 42% of people would sell their ring on eBay after a breakup/divorce
• 7% of thrifty fiancés in the UK admit that they would re-use the ring
• Case studies reveal what brutal things people did with their engagement ring after a divorce

A whopping 5885 used engagement rings are currently for sale on eBay, but selling it off isn’t the only route Brits opt for. 36% would keep it as a memento, 15% of people said they would destroy the ring, and 7% of frugal Brits would re-use the ring on their next partner.

The research also highlighted some unfortunate anecdotes around the topic, including the 6 below:

“My ex cheated on me, he asked for the ring back, I decided it would look better at the bottom of the River Mersey.”

Beth, Nottingham, 34

“Was engaged a while ago, I sold it back to the jewellers. Got about 40% of the amount I paid. My current wife and I made our own rings, and she got a puppy instead of an engagement ring.”

David, Middlesbrough, 44

“I gave them to my son. Even though the divorce was vile. I wanted to remind him that he was made with love. I then used the money from selling them to treat myself to something I wasn’t allowed. (I sold them the day after I filed for divorce)”

Julie, Leeds, 52

“My ex fiancée and I ended on very bad terms. She gave me the ring back, so I decided to use it for my now fiancée. Hoping she never finds out!”

Will, Manchester, 35

“I sold the ring then used the money to go on holiday (where I met my now husband), so a huge thanks to my ex!”

Rebecca, London, 27

“I was engaged three times before I met my current husband, and I kept every ring from all of the engagements – I now have three daughters, so inheritance-wise it has worked out well!”

Jane, 63, Leicester

Pre-break up, when it came to honesty, on average 50% of Brits said they would tell their partner if they hated the ring. Mancunians were the most brutal among Brits, with almost three quarters (71%) confessing to a partner if they didn’t like the ring from their other half, despite the value or sentimental elements. Other areas of the country that appeared high in their honesty approaches were Glasgow (68%), Liverpool (67%), and Cardiff and Bristol (both 63%).

Social Media Content Creator at F.Hinds, Emily Watkins said:

“Last year we saw divorce rates in the UK rising for the first time this decade, which got us thinking about the specific reasons behind a separation. Obviously we don’t want to put this entirely down to the ring type! But we wanted to conduct the experiment to see if there was any correlation between the chosen ring type, and the duration of the marriage.

The most successful ring to come out of the research was based on a number of different successful and well-documented relationships including those of the Obama’s, Sarah Jessica Parker and Cindy Crawford.

Whilst picking out the ring for your future partner should be done on taste and preference, we definitely think that picking out one of these rings will help impact a successful marriage”

About F.Hinds

Established in 1856, our independent, family-owned and run business celebrated 160 years in 2016.

With roughly 1,000 members of staff across all branches and Head Office, our large business offers a comprehensive, award-winning training program within a unique working atmosphere. We offer the opportunity for staff to gain nationally recognised jewellery qualifications and are very proud to have been voted Family Business of the Year in 2014.

https://www.fhinds.co.uk/

1: Taylor & Hart

visit https://taylorandhart.com/

2: Trumpet & Horn

visit http://www.trumpetandhorn.com/

3: Bicknells Jewellers

visit https://www.bicknells.com/

4: Simon G Jewelry

visit https://www.simongjewelry.com/

5: Tiffany & Co

visit: https://www.tiffany.co.uk/

The world of jewellery-making has been dominated by males throughout history, perhaps surprisingly, since it is women who often wear their creations. However, since the suffragette movements at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century, women have achieved extraordinary feats. Finally, the work of women jewellers and jewellery designers are showcased in this sumptuous book, examining the work of key figures from the Arts and Crafts movement through to the present day.

“Although unconventional, her jewellery stands as a testament of the fashions of her time period.”

-(D.A. Tayor and J.W. Laskey, Georg Jensen Holloware: The Silver Fund Collection, 2003″

 Beginning with Arts & Crafts jewellers in Britain, Europe and North America, Women JewelleryDesigners examines the key figures and movements of the pre-war period including Coco Chanel’s legendary ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ exhibition of 1932, the designs of Suzanne Belperron and the roles of Jeanne Toussaint at Cartier and Renée Puissant at Van Cleef & Arpels. From the 1950s to the present day, a wide range of international designers are examined in detail with many examples of their work clearly illustrated.

 Women Jewellery Designers is an important celebration of jewellers and jewellery designers from around the globe, throughout the twentieth century to the present day.

Some of the book notable features: 

• From the best-selling author of 21st-Century Jewellery Designs, and Lydia Courteille
• In-depth interviews with experts on the work of Suzanne Belperron and Juliette Moutard for the famous jewellery house
• Among the many names included are Coco Chanel, Suzanne Belperron and Paloma Picasso

Jewellery firms include: Boivin, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Jensen, Tiffany & Co.

Designers featured: Alma Pihl, Coco Chanel, Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard, Olga Tritt, Elisabeth Treskow, Margaret de Patta, Jeanne Toussaint, Line Vautrin, Margret Craver, Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe, Nanna Ditzel, Marianne Ostier, Barbara Anton, Gerda Flöckinger, Astrid Fog, Cornelia Roethel, Catherine Noll, Angela Cummings, Elsa Peretti, Wendy Ranshaw, Marina B, Marie-Caroline de Brosses, Marilyn Cooperman, Paloma Picasso, Victoire de Castellane, Alexandra Mor, Ornella Iannuzzi, Neha Dani, Paula Crevoshay, Nathalie Castro, Claire Choisne, Bina Goenka, Carla Amorim, Monique Péan, Michelle Ong Carnet, Kara Ross, Lydia Courteille, Suzanne Syz, Sylvie Corbelin, Kaoru Kay Akihara, Katey Brunini, Luz Camino, Cindy Chao, Aida Bergsen, Anna Hu, Barbara Heinrich, Jacqueline Cullen, Cynthia Bach.

About The Author

A Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem A), Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld began her career at Sotheby’s & Co., London. Based in France, she is also the author of Twenty-First Century Jewellery Designers: An Inspired Style ISBN 9781851497294 (Antique Collectors’ Club, 2013). Juliet’s great-grandfather, Thomas Weir, founded the jewellersWeir & Sons in Dublin in 1869, a company that is still run by members of the family.

Women Jewellery Designers by Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld is published by ACC Arts Books

Many types of precious and semi precious gemstones and jewelry can be found at the Jewelry Trade Center, JTC, which is a 59-story building and the fourth largest building in Bangkok. As you enter the ground floor of the building you will see many shops and booths selling gemstones and crystals. The building also houses many offices such as the Thai Gems & Jewelry Trader Association office, Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (AIGS) gem lab, GemResearch Swisslab (GRS) gem lab and many gemstone wholesalers and dealers.

When you are a tourist in Bangkok, you are ought to look for the Silom road for Gemstones to purchase as an investment or a souvenir. However, where do you go; is the question. To the fancy retail stores, about which we have heard some great stories about here https://www.into-asia.com/bangkok/gemscam, or to these buildings which have small shops? Unless you are looking for something cheap, these are not the places to go. The best place to find a reliable supplier are these big buildings at Silom Road, especially the JTC, where years of trust and reliability have built these Gem dealers to where they are today. However please note, these are wholesale offices, so better make a call before going and keep quiet. One of the company that we know of that allows Tourists to make an appointment first is Navneet Gems.

Navneet Gems and Minerals has Wholesale gemstones Bangkok made, it’s a 25 year old multi generation family run business which runs on its own with a factory in Chantaburi and another one in the outskirt of Bangkok where they cut most of their precious stones such as Ruby and Sapphires. They use mostly only verified sourced gemstones directly from mines in Brazil, Africa and Asia.

For more information: http://www.navneetgems.com/

However, not a lot is known about this beautiful diamond; why is it so rare? How does it get its colour? And how can you be sure that the diamond is genuinely an Argyle Pink?

Origin and Rarity of Argyle Diamonds

Pink diamonds have been known to originate in India, Brazil, Russia and Australia among other countries. Ever since Australia’s Argyle Diamond Mine commenced its operations in the mid-1980s, it has supplied 90% of the world’s pink diamonds and they remain the best and rarest in quality.

The Argyle Diamond Mine is located in the remote East-Kimberley region in the north-western part of Western Australia, approximately 3040kms from Perth. Owned by Rio Tinto, it commenced operations in December 1985 as an open pit mine. While the vast majority of the diamonds coming out of Argyle are industrial grade and low-grade gem-quality diamonds, it produces a very small quantity of high quality colourless (white) diamonds as well.

Pink diamonds have been known to originate in India, Brazil, Russia and Australia among other countries. Ever since Australia’s Argyle Diamond Mine commenced its operations in the mid-1980s, it has supplied 90% of the world’s pink diamonds and they remain the best and rarest in quality.

The Argyle Diamond Mine is located in the remote East-Kimberley region in the north-western part of Western Australia, approximately 3040kms from Perth. Owned by Rio Tinto, it commenced operations in December 1985 as an open pit mine. While the vast majority of the diamonds coming out of Argyle are industrial grade and low-grade gem-quality diamonds, it produces a very small quantity of high quality colourless (white) diamonds as well.

Grading a Pink Diamond

Pink diamonds are graded on the same 4C’s as a colourless diamond – carat weight, clarity, colour and cut.

But there are different interpretations of the 4C’s in the case of fancy coloured diamonds. For the purpose of trying to keep this article simple and as non- technical as possible, I will only focus on two of the 4C’s – clarity and colour.

Clarity: refers to the size, position and visibility of naturally occurring inclusions inside the stone. Argyle pink diamonds tend to have lower clarity grades identified by large surface reaching ‘feathers’. Very often they follow the diamond’s natural cleavage planes and can be extended right through the stone if you bump it.

Therefore, the size and nature of these inclusions can also make Argyle diamonds susceptible to breaking under pressure from trying to set the stone in claws, prongs or bezels.

So yes, a diamond can chip or break if it is bumped at an angle where it hits a surface reaching feather that is along its natural cleavage plane. It then becomes imperative that the wearer appreciates that they are wearing something that is very rare and precious, so due care while wearing it is important.

However, the lower clarity grades do not reduce the price of a pink diamond as much as they do a colourless diamond because they are harder to see in a pink diamond and secondly, a pink diamond is bought more for its colour (as is the case with most other natural coloured diamonds and gems).

Colour: Argyle have developed their own colour grading system for their pink diamonds, while the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America), the world’s largest diamond grading organisation, have their own system that it applies to all fancy coloured diamonds. Why this is the case is a matter of conjecture for another time.

Grading colour in fancy coloured diamonds is harder than colourless diamonds because the grader needs to bear three factors in mind – hue, saturation and tone – as explained by the following Munsell colour wheel.

Around the ‘equator’ is the hue as represented by the overall body of colour. Through the centre is the tone being the darkness or lightness of a diamond. Saturation refers to the intensity of the colour.

There is another factor being the modifying secondary colour such as brownish or orangey. For example: ‘pinkish brown’ where the ‘–ish’ refers to the modifying colour (in this case pink) and the second colour ‘brown’ is the predominant colour. Hence, a ‘pinkish brown’ is less attractive than a ‘brownish pink’.

Following below is the colour scale from Argyle for their pink diamonds. The most sought after and valuable are the purplish pink and pure pinks.

It goes without saying that when you are considering the purchase of a pink diamond, the jeweller or salesperson should have (1) the ability to source pink diamonds that suit the needs of the customer and (2) has the intricate knowledge and understanding of the 4C’s as they apply to fancy coloured diamonds to be able to help choose the best stone. Therefore, the process that I go through on behalf of my customers is quite an involved and time consuming one.

Certification of pink diamonds

When choosing a pink diamond, what assurances does the customer have to be sure that they are buying a genuine, Argyle pink diamond?

Rio Tinto, the owner of the Argyle diamond mine, are one of the founding members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). In view of establishing uniform standards across the supply chain, from mining, through to manufacturing and then to the retail sector, the RJC developed Principles and a Code of Practice which all members are obliged to adhere to.

In demonstrating their commitment to these governing standards, Argyle wish to ensure that their diamonds are secure and ethically sound through the entire supply chain. Hence, creating consumer confidence in these beautiful and valuable gifts of nature that are chiselled by man.

Every Argyle pink diamond over fifteen points (0.15ct) is laser inscribed with a unique Argyle Lot Number and issued with an Argyle Pink Diamond Gem Certification Document. This document certifies that at all times in the supply chain, the diamond has been in the care of Argyle Diamonds and its trusted trade partners. Additionally, most of the Argyle pink diamonds are also accompanied with GIA certification.

The Argyle Tender

The world produces approximately 130 million carats of diamond rough each year. Of these, less than 20,000 carats or 0.01 per cent are rough pink diamonds. And 90% of the world’s pink diamonds come from the Argyle diamond mine.

Over the past 30 years, the Argyle Pink Diamond Tender has become established as a unique and exclusive sale of the rarest of rare Argyle pink diamonds. Access to this tender is by private invitation only – to collectors and luxury jewellers who place sealed bids. The prices can run into the hundreds of thousands of US Dollars.

The Tender comprises a small selection of about 50 – 60 stones being the best, most vibrant and intense Argyle pink diamonds. They are showcased in Hong Kong, Sydney and New York. On certain occasions, they have also been showcased in Antwerp, Tokyo, Mumbai, Shanghai and Beijing. If a stone is not sold at tender, then it would be released to the normal wholesale and retail market in subsequent years.

In the early years of the tender, each Tender diamond was 1ct or larger in size; whereas in recent years the stones have become smaller in size – 0.25ct upwards – a testament to their rarity and depleting quantities.

The attached images show one such example. It is a Round Brilliant Argyle Pink Diamond, 0.53ct, 3PP, Lot 27 of the 2015 Argyle Tender. The diamond is shown along with its Argyle certification (it is also certified by the GIA). Price on Application.

The underground mining of the Argyle diamond mine has now ceased and Argyle are currently going through their ‘tailings’ (the sand, gravel and stone that is unearthed in the mining process) to see if there is any remaining pink diamond ore amongst them. The mine is anticipated to close in 2020. We are living at a time in history where an amazing natural resource is about to cease to exist. Those that are fortunate to own an Argyle will pass it down the generations.

Grading an Argyle Diamond

Due to the rarity of Argyle diamonds, they actually have their own grading system based on the color of the stones. First, the stones are separated according to four categories: PP (Purplish Pink), P (Pink), PR (Pink Rose), and PC (Pink Champagne). Afterward, the diamonds are graded according to the intensity of the color on a scale of 1 (the highest and deepest hues) to 9 (the lowest and lightest hue). 

Why are Argyle Diamonds so Expensive?

There are two reasons why Argyle diamonds are already more expensive compared to other pink-colored diamonds, and why the price will probably just climb higher in the future. First, the amount of Argyle diamonds that have been produced by the Argyle Diamond mine has been steadily declining over the years, and the mine is already set to be closed by 2020. This impending closure date has increased the already rare status of Argyle diamonds due to high demand and lowering supply.

Second, pure Argyle diamonds are thought to have only one color throughout the whole diamond. Most colored diamonds have at least one secondary color, so the purity and completeness of Argyle diamonds really set it apart from other colored diamonds

The average cost for an Engagement Ring now stands at around 2K. Tradition states you should be spending around two months wages on that special item. But there are so many options to consider when buying a ring that the average figure really does get thrown out of the window. A beautiful looking ring can start as low as £300 and work its way up to a cool £1 million.

Your final ring choice is governed by a number of factors, including: What metal your partner wants, the diamond size, diamond cut, diamond colour and clarity. Even the diamond shape makes a difference to the cost.

What matters is that you pay for something reflecting your budget and shows your true feelings towards your partner.

Please note the information below is a guide only and may not suit everyone’s view or opinion. If you are in any doubt please contact your local Jeweller or Diamond expert who will give you some further information..

Below is a list of interesting facts about Engagement Rings.

1) The most popular diamond shape is the round brilliant cut. Depending on the type of design you choose it does tend to show off the diamond very well. The round definitely scores high on overall BLING & WOW factor as it is cut to allow for maximum light and brilliance.

2) GIA and IGI are two of the most respected diamond grading labs in the world. They grade diamonds so you know exactly what your buying. If the diamond has no certification ensure the company you are buying from has a good reputation for providing good quality stock and can guarantee themselves that it is good quality. Others to look out for are EGL which do offer strict diamond grading at affordable prices. If buying an in-house diamond graded diamond, these can provide a very un-biased view and may not have the same value as a Diamond with genuine certification but as mentioned above the retailer may have an excellent in house diamond grading expertise.

Simon Wright from Diamond Jewellers kindly states in reference to this point “The GIA is, I agree, a highly respected diamond grading laboratory. However, by presenting the article as factual information is misleading as a diamond certificate is not a guarantee of the quality of the diamond. It is the opinion of a diamond grader presented on a piece of paper. The nature of diamond grading is that the grader makes an informed observation on the properties of the stone, which allows for variation between the certificates based on who the grader is. I have seen lovely stones that have been graded by the GIA, and I have also seen some stones that should never had received the grading they have through the GIA.”

Simon then goes on to explain “A diamond certificate is in no way a guarantee of what you are getting. It is more important to purchase your diamond from a jeweller who is reputable and who you can trust. On un-laser marked stones it is easy for a jewellery to say a certificate belongs to a particular stone and the customer has little way of proving otherwise”

3) You may want to consider buying your diamond online as you can make a saving of between 20 – 25% opposed to buying your engagement ring on the high street. Check out our 5 top on line Budget Engagement Rings. (All UK business online will include sales tax at 20%. Cheaper online prices may be due to lower operating costs of the business. Tax may be saved if buying from another country and importing in. You may well get charged import tax (Duty) if picked up by customs though.

4) The tradition of an engagement ring was introduced in 1477. Archduke Maximillian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a Gold ring set with a diamond as a token of love.

5) Jewellery engagement ring animation has taken over the web. These are interactive and give customers a better idea how the ring looks in great detail.

6) Ancient cultures believed that the third finger on the left hand, had a special vein called Vena Amoris, the vein of “love,” this vein runs directly to the heart.

7) The word diamond comes from the Greek word “adamant” which means steadfast or invincible. It is from this word that the diamond gets its name. Diamonds are believed to be indestructible but although a very hard material they are also quite brittle so getting a hammer to it will not do it much good!!

8) Many of the diamond rings you now see online are in fact models that are not real. These rings are computer generated to look real as traditional photography isn’t always the best option for such small and beautiful products.

9) Some engagement rings are used as Wedding bands. You can still have a separate wedding ring band, but some designs incorporate this.

10) Countries such as England, United states, France, and Canada traditionally wear the engagement ring on the left hand. Where as Germany, Russia and India wear the ring on the right hand.

11) The most common metal used for engagement rings is either White Gold or Platinum, however due to the rise in cost for these two types of metal Palladium is the new metal on the scene. Palladium is regarded as a precious metal and is a luxury alternative at a much cheaper price.

12) Many alternative engagement rings are being designed and manufactured everyday. There are some amazing custom designs out there that look amazing. They do however come at a premium but they look electric compared to the standard shanks available on many websites and shop outlets. Many large online retailers sell common designs that a majority of people want but it is worth checking out individual designers and custom builds as they are not always that much more expensive to buy.

13) Although Valentines day is one of the most important days of the year for jewellery retailers, December is in fact the most popular time of the year to get engaged.

14) Diamonds were first discovered in India as far back as 800 B.C. But diamonds were not used on wedding bands or engagement rings until the 15th century.

15) The most expensive diamond engagement ring in the world is the De Beers Platinum. Weighing in at a cool 9-carats. It’s no wonder it costs around £1.2 million.

16) The average diamond carat weight used in engagement rings is estimated at 0.37 carats.

17) Did you know if you shine an ultraviolet light on a real diamond it will glow in the dark for a few seconds. Some experts believe this is a good way to make sure its the real thing.

18) The Kimberly Process ensures conflict-driven diamonds are no longer fuelled by civil wars or conflict. In fact Less than 1% of all diamonds mined are conflict related.

19) The youngest diamond is 900 million years old, however scientist can grow synthetic diamonds averaging 2.5 carats in 4 days.

“The symbol for Palladium is the Pallas Athene, the Greek Goddess of War, Wisdom and Crafts, after whom it was named. The mark was designed for use as part of the Palladium hallmark ”

A Lighter Brighter Future..

In fact the light and bright Palladium metal is slowly on the rise as more and more customers are seeking an affordable alternative. Its current price comparison against Gold and Platinum is just £16.74 per Gram making it 50% cheaper than Gold and almost 40% cheaper than Platinum. Thats a few ££ in saving on the ring alone.

So whats new about Palladium?

Palladium is generally alloyed with elements such as Ruthenium and Iridium (Palladium accounting for approx 95%). It is also a Platinum group metal and comes with many advantages. For example:

• It does not tarnish or lose whiteness when worn.
• Palladium does not need to be rhodium plated.
• Palladium is harder wearing.

As it’s a platinum group metal its makes the jewellery item hypo-allergenic. (none nickel based).
The colour of palladium is slightly darker than platinum making any set diamonds on the shank of the ring look more revealing.

Palladium is in the same price bracket as white gold but due to the price of gold rising Palladium should be less expensive.

Saving the best fact for last: PALLADIUM is actually rarer than GOLD and may hold a higher value in the future, especially if it becomes sought after over Gold due to jewellery trends in the buying market.

FACT: From January 2010 Palladium is now officially recognised as a precious metal. If a Palladium designed ring weighs more than 1 gram it is now a legal requirement for it to be hallmarked.

If you decide to go for a gorgeous Palladium engagement ring, don’t be afraid to make the change. Many large on-line and high street retailers are already offering this option.

We welcome your thoughts. Does anyone have Palladium or has decided to buy Palladium over other types of metal. Let us know by leaving a comment below.

Lauri Vuohensilta – the crazy guy behind the channel asks the question: “They say diamonds are forever, but how long?”

The guys over at www.iflscience.com explain why the diamond is broken so easily?

“As some have pointed out, the “hardness” that diamonds are known for only really refers to their ability to be scratch-resistant. While the covalent bonds between the diamond atoms themselves are extremely strong, diamonds can also be brittle, especially if there’s any kind of defect or it’s been poorly cut. Scientists have even discovered materials that are actually harder than diamonds, such as wurtzite boron nitride and lonsdaleite.”