The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) recently examined a lab-grown diamond that sets a new record. Its Hong Kong laboratory had the opportunity to study a 34.59-carat diamond, called the ‘Pride of India’ marking the largest faceted lab-grown diamond that the GIA has ever tested.

The diamond was produced by Ethereal Green Diamond, a company based in Mumbai that utilises the Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) process. The 34.59-carat diamond’s dimensions are 24.94 x 13.95 x 9.39mm.

The last record holder was a 30.18 carat diamond, also called the ‘Pride of India’, it was produced in 2022. The diamond was examined by the IGI and also made by Ethereal Green Diamond.

Characteristics and Quality of the Diamond

This emerald-cut lab-grown diamond has been graded as a G colour and VS2 clarity by the GIA. A notable characteristic is the presence of small black graphite inclusions, which are either within the diamond’s body or forming clusters between the diamond’s growth layers.

Additionally, the diamond features a weak “oily” or wavy graining on the table facet, which is often observed in gem-quality CVD diamonds. It also underwent a high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) annealing post-growth, a common practice used to enhance the diamond’s colour.

Observations from the Diamond Examination

The GIA’s examination of this diamond provides insight into the considerable progress in CVD diamond growth technology. The ability to increase the size of the diamond by 14% within a year is a clear indicator of the fast-paced advancements in this sector.

The GIA also noted the growth striations typically seen in CVD diamonds through fluorescence imaging. This suggests that the growth process remains consistent, even with the increase in diamond size.

Implications for the UK Jewellery Industry

The examination of this record-breaking lab-grown diamond has important implications for the UK jewellery industry. Primarily, it signals the rapid progression in lab-grown diamond technology. The capacity to produce larger, high-quality diamonds via the CVD process may pose a challenge to the traditional diamond market, positioning lab-grown diamonds as a more compelling alternative.

Moreover, the diamond’s quality and size could help shift perceptions about lab-grown diamonds. For consumers prioritising sustainability and ethical sourcing, these advancements can provide more options without sacrificing quality or aesthetics.

The UK jewellery industry may need to adapt to these changes, embracing the rise of lab-grown diamonds and integrating them into their product lines. This could lead to new avenues for growth and innovation.

Lastly, with India emerging as a key player in the production of large, lab-grown diamonds, the UK jewellery industry might see opportunities for diversified supply chains and new partnerships.

In summary, the 34.59-carat lab-grown diamond showcases the potential of CVD technology and is likely to influence the future direction of the jewellery industry.

After a year of researching the historical and current use of the colour term “Peacock,” as well as considering industry feedback, GIA decided to add this descriptive term to better inform consumers.

The new term will be used when a pearl, strand or jewellery item meets carefully defined colour parameters for ‘Peacock’.

Defining the “Peacock” Colour Range

GIA’s industry analysis has identified a specific colour range that is widely agreed upon within the pearl trade as “peacock.” The general description of this colour range is a body colour with a hue that contains green, of mid-to-strong saturation and mid-to-dark tone, and with moderate or stronger overtone, usually pink, but it may be other hues, or orient.

When a pearl meets these carefully defined colour parameters, a comment stating, “This pearl is often referred to as a ‘Tahitian’ cultured pearl in the trade, and it falls into the select colour range that is known as ‘peacock'” will be added to any GIA pearl report.

No Extra Fee for the New Classification

GIA has confirmed that there will be no additional fee for this change.

The institute, best known for creating the 4Cs and the GIA International Diamond Grading System, has been a leader in the identification and classification of natural and cultured pearls since 1949. GIA has developed comprehensive standards for describing pearls, known as the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors: Size, Shape, Color, Nacre, Lustre, Surface, and Matching.

What This Means for UK Jewellers

This new classification by GIA presents several implications for UK jewellers. Primarily, it can enhance the value proposition of Tahitian pearls falling within the “Peacock” colour range. The “Peacock” classification can make these pearls more desirable to consumers, potentially driving higher sales and profits.

Furthermore, this change can enhance transparency and consumer trust. By using a recognised and standardised colour term, jewellers can provide customers with clearer, more accurate information about the pearls they’re purchasing.

UK jewellers should update their knowledge and marketing materials to reflect this new classification. They should also ensure that their staff are trained to explain the “Peacock” colour range to customers.

While this change may seem minor, it may represent an opportunity for UK jewellers to enhance their pearl offerings, improve customer trust, and potentially drive higher sales.

These recommendations, made public through the Jewelry Vigilance Committee (JVC), are intended to ensure consumer protection, uphold the integrity of the supply chain, and promote transparency in the industry.

The AGTA Industry Terms Committee

In January, AGTA unveiled a new committee with the goal of standardizing terms surrounding sustainability and ethics within the jewelry industry.

This committee, under the leadership of President Kim Collins, is responsible for drafting AGTA’s comments and recommendations for use in the FTC’s ‘Green Guides’.

Comprised of industry professionals, researchers, and gemological experts, the committee is well-positioned to provide meaningful guidance on industry terminology.

FTC Green Guides

The FTC Green Guides are designed to help businesses avoid making deceptive environmental claims, ensuring that marketing communications are transparent, accurate, and substantiated.

With sustainability and ethical practices increasingly important to consumers, these guidelines aim to play a vital role in protecting both businesses and customers.

The Recommendations

AGTA’s recommendations to the FTC seek to clarify the use of specific terms in the jewelry industry. Key recommendations made include:

1. Defining sustainability: The committee suggests using the widely accepted definition of “sustainable” as developed by the United Nations’ Brundtland Commission in 1987.
2. Clarifying “ethical”, “responsible”, and “conflict-free”: The AGTA urges the FTC to establish clear definitions for these terms to prevent misuse and ensure integrity throughout the supply chain.
3. Preventing unsubstantiated environmental claims: The AGTA recommends issuing guidance to prevent companies from making unfounded environmental claims.
4. Restricting the use of “recycled”: The AGTA suggests banning the use of the term “recycled” for all gem materials as well as certain metals, and instead use the term “recovered from electronic or e-waste” exclusively for recovered metals.
5. Avoiding “never-mined” or “mining-free”: The committee recommends against the use of these terms when referring to gemstones and precious metals.
6. Defining “carbon neutral”: The committee urges the FTC to allow the use of “carbon neutral” only with substantiation and to prohibit the term “carbon free” as the former more accurately reflects the carbon offsets being used by some companies.

The Importance of Clear Terminology

These recommendations come in response to a lack of existing legal definitions for certain terms, which has led to instances of “greenwashing” in the jewelry industry.

The committee has highlighted the overuse and misuse of terms like “ethical” and “responsible”, which often imply environmental and social benefits without providing specifics.

It has also expressed concern over the term “recycled”, which is frequently used to describe reused materials, leading to potential consumer misconceptions.

Industry Perspectives

Several committee members have shared their perspectives on the recommendations, stressing the need for clear definitions, consumer protection, and industry-wide standards.

John Bradshaw, a gemstone cutter and gemologist, highlighted the need for shared understanding. “The committee was all in agreement to define terms like ‘sustainability’ and ‘ethics’,” he explained. “Who defines what these are right now? We developed some guidance for the FTC that is better than what is currently available, and we’ll eventually share some clear definitions with the membership that will put us all on the same page.”

Jaimeen Shah, Partner at Prima Gems USA, lauded the committee’s cooperative spirit. “This is the first time that gem dealers have sat down and worked together to produce guidelines like this,” he noted. “There was no overthinking, nothing was overly devised, it was the industry representing itself to create pure cohesive recommendations.“

Jenna White, a researcher with a focus on transparent and traceable jewelry supply chains, spoke about sustainability. “We urged the FTC to adopt the existing, generally accepted UN definition of sustainable,” she stated. “Our committee believes that colored gemstones can meet this definition, so there’s no need to reinvent the term.“

She also highlighted the problem with the term ‘recycled’. “We believe this term is being used to manipulate the consumer. To our knowledge, people generally are not throwing gems and precious metals into the trash. Therefore, recutting or resetting stones is not diverting anything from the waste stream nor decreasing the demand for newly mined materials.”

A UK Perspective

While these recommendations are aimed at the US FTC, they provide valuable insights for the UK jewellery trade industry.

The issues of sustainability, ethical sourcing, and responsible trade are global concerns, and the guidance provided by the AGTA committee can serve as a model for similar discussions in the UK.

As we strive for transparency and integrity in our industry, it’s essential to establish clear, universally accepted definitions for key terms and to ensure these terms are used correctly to prevent misunderstandings and promote ethical trade practices.

The event, which was dedicated to the late Karl Lagerfeld, saw celebrities and fashionistas adorned with pieces that reflected Lagerfeld’s love for pearls and fine jewelry, and served as testament to the transformative power of accessories in creating unforgettable looks.

We take you through our top 5 looks below.

Dua Lipa’s Legendary Tiffany & Co Diamond Necklace

As one of the event chairs, Dua Lipa was expected to shine, and she did just that. The singer wore an eggshell-colored vintage Chanel tweed gown, which was originally worn by Claudia Schiffer in 1992.

This was set off by a show stopping necklace from Tiffany & Co, featuring the Legendary Diamond, a cushion modified brilliant cut white diamond of over 100ct.

The diamond, set on the Lucida Star Necklace, is rumoured to be worth over $10 million and had its first red carpet outing, making Dua Lipa the first star to wear this impressive piece. The singer complemented the necklace with a platinum diamond ring and Tiffany & Co Schlumberger rings

Rihanna’s Mix and Match Extravaganza

Fashion darlings Rihanna and A$AP Rocky, though late to arrive at the Met Museum, made an unforgettable statement. Rihanna wore a Bulgari high jewellery necklace in platinum with alternating rows of Akoya pearls and white diamonds.

With RhiRhi more is more, and she also layered on another diamond and pearl vintage double-strand necklace and mixed floral and pearl ear clips from Belperron.

Kim Kardashian adorned with pearls

Kim Kardashian made a stunning appearance donning a Schiaparelli Chain Dress laden with an astonishing 50,000 freshwater pearls and more than 16,000 crystals. The meticulous craftsmanship behind her ensemble required over 1,000 hours of work.

This was a nod to a nude Playboy shoot Kim did in 2007, wearing nothing but pearls. Kim accessorised with a statement choker, pearl drop earrings, and an articulated ring featuring exquisite baroque pearls and crystals.

Lily Collins dazzles in Cartier

With her midcentury-inspired hair and makeup, Lily Collins effortlessly channeled the elegance of another era. The Emily in Paris star wore a necklace and earrings of white diamond, onyx and platinum jewelry from the upcoming high jewellery “Le Voyage Recommencé” collection from Cartier.

The standout feature of the graphic necklace lies not only in its striking black onyx and shield-shaped diamonds, but also its transformative nature, the necklace can be worn as two separate pieces.

Priyanka Chopra Shines in Bulgari’s Historic Laguna Blu Diamond

Priyanka Chopra, Bulgari’s global ambassador, turned heads at the Met Gala with her stunning choice of jewelry.

The focal point of her look was a Bulgari High Jewelry necklace featuring the legendary Laguna Blu Diamond.

Crafted from platinum and diamonds, the necklace paid homage to Rome, the birthplace of Bulgari, with its interlocking diamond design inspired by bay laurel wreaths worn by emperors.

The centerpiece, the extremely rare 11.16-carat Laguna Blu diamond, renowned for its vibrant oceanic blue colour, is a historic gem that was originally set as a ring in 1970.

In a collaboration with Sotheby’s, Bulgari created the exceptional high jewelry piece for the event, and the necklace will soon be auctioned in Geneva, expected to fetch over a staggering $27 million USD.

In January 2023, the GIA had embarked on an ambitious endeavour to transition to a ‘paperless’ operation, only to backtrack on its decision four months later. This quick reversal came after the diamond trade voiced disapproval over the new digital system, citing concerns about potential disruptions, customer dissatisfaction, and the risk of abuse.

The GIA’s Senior Vice President and Chief Operating Officer, Pritesh Patel, admitted that the organisation had not sufficiently anticipated the challenges inherent to adopting a digital-only model. “We did not adequately anticipate the challenges of adopting the digital-only GIA Diamond Dossier report,” Patel said. “GIA will continue to provide the printed reports that enhance consumer trust, while working to develop robust, secure, and compelling digital versions of all our reports.”

Effective from April 9, 2023, all diamonds submitted to the GIA laboratories will receive a printed Diamond Dossier report, reminiscent of the pre-digital era. Clients who had received a digital-only report in the short-lived digital period can request a printed version at no cost. For those who still prefer the digital format, the GIA will continue to offer digital versions of the Diamond Dossier report and the Report Access Card.

However, this sudden about-face from the GIA does raise significant questions about the future of digital transformation within the gemological industry.

Implications for you

This unexpected shift in GIA’s digital strategy has several important implications for you.

Firstly, if you adopted the digital-only model, you may now find yourself having to readjust your processes back to accommodate paper reports. While this could cause a temporary disruption, it’s an important step to ensure you are serving your customers in the way they are most comfortable with.

For those of you who found the digital transition challenging or faced customer pushback due to the lack of paper certificates, this return to a familiar format may come as a relief. The reintroduction of paper reports could potentially restore customer trust and smoothen your sales process, particularly for those clients who prefer the reassurance of a physical, printed certificate.

This situation also underscores the importance of your adaptability in the face of industry changes. As a jeweller, your ability to stay agile and responsive to shifts in certification processes and customer preferences is key to your success.

This incident is a powerful reminder that while digital transformation is inevitable, the pace and method of this transition must be carefully managed to ensure it aligns with your needs and those of your customers. As we’ve seen from the GIA’s experience, digitalisation can bring about efficiencies and environmental benefits, but these should not come at the cost of consumer trust and the smooth running of your operations.

Looking ahead, as the GIA continues to develop “robust, secure and compelling digital versions” of its reports, it’s crucial that you stay informed about these changes. At the same time, ensure you maintain the flexibility to meet your customers’ needs and preferences, whether they lean towards traditional paper reports or the convenience of digital versions.

However, in the professional world it is a topic for debate.

Does it enhance or detract from the appearance of a stone? How does this affect the stones value? 

Discover what fluorescence is, how it is measured and what it means when purchasing your special piece of jewellery.

So what exactly is diamond fluorescence?

To put it simply diamond fluorescence is like the glow in the dark paint you can buy for black light parties, or Ross’ glowing teeth in that one episode of friends.

Fluorescence in diamonds is only seen under external high energy light or radiation sources. Examples include; strong Ultraviolet (UV) light, lasers and x-rays. You can see diamond fluorescence in settings like nightclubs, tanning beds or in bright sunlight due to these UV rays. It can appear in a range of colours, however is most commonly seen in the blue spectrum. The intensity of this colour is often graded on a scale from 1 to 5. With 5 being a high level of fluorescence and 1 meaning the stone does not emit any light.

How common diamond fluorescence is

According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) a study of 26,000 diamonds determined only between 25 and 35 percent of diamonds emit fluorescence. This is due to varying degrees of structural differences in the diamonds atomic makeup. Synthetic diamonds alongside other stones commonly used to replace diamonds like cubic zirconia are also known to produce fluorescence.

Purchasing a diamond with Fluorescence:

Fluorescence can have both a positive and negative impact on a diamond depending on it’s values of; Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat weight. These characteristics are also known as the 4 C’s. In some stones with reduced clarity and impure colour, strong blue fluorescence has been found to improve their overall appearance. In most cases for lower end diamonds there is little impact on their overall appearance. Some high quality larger stones may loose value through fluorescence decreasing their overall clarity.

At the end of the day, when purchasing a diamond jewellery piece beauty is determined by the eye of the beholder. To ensure you are happy ask to view the piece in various levels of light including bright sunlight. Many jewellery stores are low light environments, going outside allows you to see how the suns UV rays affect the diamonds overall appearance.

Now you understand the basic principles of diamond fluorescence you can go about your diamond purchase with more confidence, choosing the right stone for you and the environment you live and work in.

Pink diamonds are growing in popularity, both for use in jewellery and as an potential investment.Here’s everything you need to know about these beautiful stones.

What are pink diamonds?

Pink diamonds are one of the rarest colours of ‘fancy coloured’ diamonds – a term that covers diamonds outside the normal white to yellow colour range.

In fact, pink diamonds are the second rarest colour of diamond – second only to red diamonds. This rarity can result in high prices – sometimes up to £500,000 per carat for stones which exhibit very rare colours.

What makes a Pink Diamond Pink?

The colours in most fancy coloured diamonds are a result of different chemicals being present in the ground when the diamonds were formed.

However, pink diamonds don’t contain impurities that they derive their color from and gemologists aren’t entirely certain how the pink diamond obtains their color. The main theory is that when pink diamonds were forced to the Earth’s surface, their internal structure was deformed, which changes the way the diamond absorbs light, causing them to emit a pink hue

Where are pink diamonds from?

Pink diamonds were first discovered in India in the 17th century, with other deposits also found in Brazil at a similar time. However, recently pink diamonds have primarily been produced from Australia, with more than 90% coming from a single mine – the ‘Argyle Mine’ in Western Australia. 

The largest pink diamonds (1 carat and over) have traditionally been sold through a ‘tender’ process, where diamond dealers, or individuals, can bid to buy the more significant diamonds each year. Trationally, this has been around 40-50 diamonds each year.

The Argyle mine has now closed, meaning that it will no longer producing pink diamonds, hugely reducing the supply of new pink diamonds that are going to be coming into the market.

Pink diamond colour grades

Pink diamonds come in all different shades, and just like other coloured diamonds, they can be graded:

• Faint
• Very light
• Light
• Fancy light,
• Fancy intense
• Fancy deep
• Fancy vivid

The more intense the colour of the diamond (ie. the closer to the bottom of the list), the higher the price of the diamond.

As with other fancy coloured diamonds, pink diamonds usually have a secondary ‘hue’, which will affect what they look like. These secondary hues are included in the colour description of a grading report, where it will say something like orange-pink. 

These secondary hues also vary in rarity, and therefore affect the value of the diamond. Brown  is the most common secondary hue and stones with this color are generally the least valuable.

There is also another colour scale used to decribe the colour of pink diamonds, developed by the Argyle company. They grade their pink diamonds firstly by colour:

• Pink (P)
• Purplish pink (PP)
• Pink rose (PR)

They then assign a number from 1-10, to indicate the intensity of color, where 1 is the highest saturation and most intense colour, and 9 is faintest pink. 10 is used to indicate complete absence of intensity ie. white:

1. Very intense
2. Intense
3. Strong
4. Medium
5. Medium Light
6. Light
7. Very Light
8. Blush
9. Light Blush

Factors that affect pink diamond prices

As with all fancy coloured diamonds, it’s colour that has the biggest effect om the price of a pink diamond. The higher more vivid and more intense pink a dimaond is, the rarer it is and therefore the higher the price is.

However, there are also many other factors that affect a pink diamond’s price:

Carat weight

The weight of a diamond is always a factor in how much it costs, with prices rising quickly with an increase in carat weight for pink diamonds.

In general, pink diamonds are much smaller than white diamonds, with any pink diamond above 0.2 carats being considered large, with gems above one carat exceedingly rare – only around 50 are sold at tender in any one year.

Clarity

Pink diamonds are still graded for clarity, but it does not have such a significant effect on price as colour, and many are not eye clean.

For pale pink diamonds, the higher the clarity, the more desirable the stone is and therefore the more expensive it will be.

Inclusions show less readily in darker stones, so more can be permitted.

Cut quality

Cut quality doesn’t play a major role in pink diamond pricing, as diamonds aren’t judged on their light performance (ie. how much they sparkle).

However, a well-cut (or a diamond with a nice ‘make’) will always be more attractive and more expensive than one with a poor shape.

One thing to know is that pink diamonds are usually cut to retain as much carat weight as possible as they are so valuable and rate. This is different from white diamonds, which are usually cut to maximise light performance, as well as carat weight.

Colour Treatments

Many coloured diamonds are treated to improve their colour, and pink diamonds are no different. These treatments could be:

• HPHT High pressure, high temperature treatments recreate the conditions that diamonds are formed in and can change the colour of a diamond considerably, either increasing its intensity, or changing the colour completely
• Irradiation treatment can create vivid pink colours, but these can be badly affected if a diamond is exposed to heat, so care needs to be taken by owners of diamonds that have been subject to this treatment.
• Annealing is the process of heading and then cooling a diamond to change its colour, and is often combined with irradiation. As with irradiation, diamonds that have had their colour changed by annealing can be adversely affected by head, to care needs to be taken.
• Coating is literally a coating on the surface of the diamond to change its colour. Over time, this can wear off, so it is usually not viewed as desirable.

Every pink diamond you consider should have been test by an independent lab, which will test for treatments and record the findings on the grading report.

Buying a pink diamond ring

Due to their high price, buying a pink diamond for an engagement ring can feel out of reach for many. However, there are some things that can be done to make it more achievable.

Consider treated diamonds

As mentioned above, pink diamonds can be created from other colours by HPHT, or the increase the intensity of colour in light pink diamonds through other treatments.

Choosing a pink diamond that has been treated will mean a lower price than a naturally-coloured diamond, but does mean that extra care needs to be taken with the stone.

Lab-grown pink diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds have advanced hugely in quality in acceptance over the last 3 or 4 years, and lab-grown pink diamonds are many times less expensive than natural, mined diamonds.

One thing to know about lab grown diamonds is that they currently have no resale value, so if you are considering one, it’s unlikely that you would be able to sell it if your tastes change in the future.

Choose a setting that increases the perceived size

Due to their high price, an effective way to increase the impressiveness of a pink diamond ring is to increase the impressiveness of the setting itself.

Teaming a pink diamond with other precious gems in a three stone or a halo setting can mean that even a pink diamond with a light carat weight can still feel like a significant piece of jewellery. For example, this double-halo setting has a 0.46 carat centre stone, but a total carat weight of 1.19 carats to deliver a huge visual impact.

As with all diamond purchases, the key to finding a great pink diamond ring is working with a specialist who can guide you through the process and help you find the stone that is the best fit for you.

As there are so many more factors that affect pink diamonds prices than regular white diamonds, we recommend that you aim to work with a specialist in coloured diamonds to guide you through the process.